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PART of the charm of Whitby is that in spite of the influx of holidaymakers each summer it still has the feel of an old fishing port. It has strong associations with Captain Cook and Dracula. The colourful harbour has plenty to hold the visitors' interest and the energetic can climb the 199 steps from the harbour to the Parish Church. The town is divided by the Esk, the only salmon river in Yorkshire, and the two sides are linked by a 1908 swing level bridge